EXPLORING BARILOCHE, ARGENTINA: THE CHARMING GATEWAY TO PATAGONIA
Updated: Feb 12
Bariloche, Argentina
Nestled in the Argentine Lake District, San Carlos de Bariloche—simply called Bariloche—is one of Patagonia’s most charming alpine towns. It's just on the north side of the area considered to be Patagonia - which is the region encompassing the southernmost tip of South America, shared by Argentina and Chile, with the Andes Mountains as its dividing line. Bariloche is located in the foothills of the Patagonian Andes, near the border with Chile. Surrounded by snowcapped mountains, deep-blue lakes, and thick forests, it’s a year-round destination known for hiking, skiing, chocolate, and hearty cuisine.
I consider Bariloche to be Patagonia-Lite... Bariloche sits in northern Patagonia, making it more accessible than some of the region’s remote southern destinations, like Torres del Paine and Glaciers National Park. From Buenos Aires, it’s a two-hour direct flight to Teniente Luis Candelaria International Airport, followed by a 20-minute drive into town. Bariloche requires no preparation, since everything is accessible from the main town. You can easily book a trip last minute and see it all. Because that's what I did! I booked this with only two days notice ,and popped down from Buenos Aires to fulfill a dream of mine to hike in Patagonia. Luckily - I had a friend who was already in the area, so I got some tips, recommendations, and a dinner/hiking companion. Not so lucky was that I didn't own much of any actual winter clothing. I packed what I had and figured I could wear it all at once if needed -and yes I did!
Upon arriving in Bariloche, not only find it is an adorable town, but you will discover that it's quite manageable to get around. No car is needed since everything is walkable. The main street, Calle Mitre, is lined with charming wooden architecture and vibrant shops and restaurants. If you have a sweet tooth- you are in luck! Bariloche is considered the chocolate capital of Argentina, so the street has many fine chocolate shops to take your pick from. There are all sorts of restaurants and many shops that sell and rent outdoor gear- for those who want to pack lite but enjoy the outdoor experiences.
The main street is just a few blocks from the shore of Lake Nahuel Huapi. Strolling along the waterfront, you can enjoy stunning views of the surrounding mountains and the crystal-clear waters. A popular photo spot is the iconic "Bariloche" sign, which attracts visitors looking to capture their memories. I spent one week in Bariloche and even though it was a last minute trip- I felt like it was enough time to fully experience every aspect of this incredible place. Here is my itinerary:
DAY 1: ARRIVAL & DELICIOUS DINING
After arriving in Bariloche and settling in, I met up with my friend to enjoy a memorable meal. El Canelo is a cozy upscale restaurant serving beautifully presented regional cuisine. My dinner was incredible- venison ravioli in leek and onion sauce, grilled vegetables, and melted provoleta cheese, all paired perfectly with a glass of local Malbec red wine. What a great start already! I went to bed full and happy and excited for my first hike in Patagonia tomorrow.
DAY 2: HIKE TO REFUGIO FREY
Since I am not an early riser by any means, it was a treat to be able to catch the late sunrise over the rooftops at 8:35am from the giant window in my Airbnb.
Note: Argentina in general, is a country that starts late! When I got dropped off by the bus to the parking lot where the hike starts, there are quite a few restaurants and shops- and only one was open at 10:30am!
For those seeking a classic Bariloche hike, Refugio Frey is a must-do. The trail begins at Cerro Catedral, the town’s famous ski resort, and stretches roughly 12 miles (round trip), on a well-marked and easy to follow trail that is normally populated with other hikers.
From town, it is quite easy to get to any of the trails on the local buses. Since I had a very late start, I grabbed a taxi from town and got dropped off at 10:30am. Despite it being mid-morning, it was cold at this hour. Thankfully there was one shop open serving to-go coffee. I grabbed a hot coffee to warm up then crossed the parking lot to the far side where the hike begins.
Since I was there in May, which is considered late Autumn, the trees had turned colors and the landscape was a spectacular sea of red and gold, with vistas of the mountains off in the distance. I couldn't believe I had accidentally hit the timing here so well. The route started with a wide dirt trail through autumn-colored forests and eventually you could see views of the alpine lake. As the elevation gained,
I ascended into barren forest and rockier alpine terrain. The leaves had already fallen and it felt like winter. After about six hours of hiking, the trail rewarded me with sweeping views of jagged spires reflected in a glacial lagoon, nearby the stone-built refuge, which is considered the turnaround point for the day hike.
Here, the clouds concealed the mountain peaks, and patches of snow were scattered across the ground. The refuge was a warm and lively sanctuary, perfect for enjoying some hot food before turning around . These refuges dot the Patagonian trails and also serve as hostels for hikers planning to venture further along. Personally, I was content to savor a hot empanada and hot chocolate before making my way back down.
Since the sun sets rather early, and I was running super late, I had to really push my little legs. Almost every hiker passed me, and I managed to see the parking lot again around 6:30pm, just as the sun had started to set. Because it was my first day and I was unfamiliar with the bus schedules and ill-prepared, I had to wait 2.5 hours until the next one! I spent part of that time having another hot chocolate inside one of the restaurants, but then it closed so I was stuck out in the cold. It was 51F which was the coldest I had felt in many years, since home base was out in the perpetual warmth of Los Angeles. My workout leggings were not cutting it, and the exposed area between the pants and my socks was frozen. I was shivering by the time the bus arrived but oh so elated- and quite proud of myself- to have powered through - on my own- an actual hike in Patagonia! I'd say this hike is moderately challenging but suitable for mid-range hikers with stamina.
That evening I was happy to grab a hot meal with my friend and his friends in town. And then I slept like a baby.
DAY 3: SUMMIT CERRO GOYE VIA COLONIA SUIZA
My day began with an extraordinary sunrise out my window at roughly 8:45am! It's so crazy how late the sun rises here- just like most Argentinians! Today was a cold 44F, and the plan was to hike with my friend. I piled on pretty much everything I had brought- two pairs of leggings, two long sleeve shirts (with the outer one being the one I had on inside yesterday!), a thin sweater, and my very thin hooded down jacket. We met up in town and took a taxi to Colonia Suiza, a quaint Swiss-inspired hamlet with wooden chalets and cobbled streets. It was a long, but lovely walk to the trailhead to Refugio Laguna Negro begins, on our way to Cerro Goye, a "moderately strenuous" 10.5 mile hike.
We started our hike together, but my little legs were definitely weighing my friend back, so we agreed he would go ahead and I would catch up with him at the summit, going at my own pace. Unfortunately, my sense of direction is abominable and even with his directions and a map, I ended up lost. I was fine for a while on the main trail, albeit I did get a little nervous going through an area that reminded me of The Haunted Forest in The Wizard of Oz.
But then I must have taken a wrong turn. The trail turned up and up and the final ascent was brutal- a sharp incline that I staggered up with repeated stops- wondering if I would make it. My cell service had evaporated so I had no way of reaching anyone, and worse yet- I had not seen any other hikers for a couple hours. I finally made it to the top to encounter a truly gorgeous sweeping vista of the area- panoramic lake views framed by the dramatic Andean peaks- with absolutely no one around! It had warmed up by now- or I was over-heated from the hike - but either way, I peeled off my coat, completely awe-struck, and more than a little freaked out that I was alone on a summit in Patagonia- and took a few minutes to take it all in.
Then I started to power-hike down, afraid I might be lost on the mountain. Thank goodness I was able to connect with the main trail and within an hour or so, I almost burst into tears of relief when I saw another person on the trail!
When I finally got cell service I got a hold of my friend who was sitting at the brewery at Berlina Brewery the bottom wondering where I was. Ha! I finally made it back and my friend calmed me down and we relaxed and chilled out for a while before attempting to go home.
After that ordeal, we ran into another problem- it turns out there were no buses or taxis to take us home. We waited and waited and finally ended up catching a ride with some local hikers passing by who took pity on us (as in hitchhiking! which was an experience I never planned to have, but can now cross of my list!). Lesson here is this is not the place to be unprepared for, but thankfully Argentinians are really kind.
Dinner that night was at a local parilla- AKA a steakhouse. Argentina is big on meat- and it is plentiful! No small portions here- and some of the best steak in the world! Nothing like climbing a giant mountain to work up a hearty appetite!
DAY 4: GETTING TO KNOW BARILOCHE TOWN
Today, I took a a break from the long hikes to enjoy Bariloche itself, since the town has so much to see. It was a sunny 57F, so a perfect day to walk around. I began near The Cathedral of Our Lady of Nahuel Huapi, a striking stone church facing the water. After taking time to go into the church, I proceeded on to the path down to the lake, passing sculptures and murals, the enormous skate park, the artisan market with local crafts raining from jewelry to carvings to textiles, on to the Promenade of the Waterfront by the lake which has a display on the history of the area and also an outdoor terrace with a dramatic view of the lake, along the walkway with the huge Bariloche Sign, and finally the Swiss-style town hall and square called Centro Civico.
Dinner was back in town at a local Italian restaurant where I warmed up over a hearty dish of seafood pasta.
DAY 5: LLAO LLAO PENINSULA
HIKING LLAO LLAO PENINSULA
The Llao Llao Peninsula, a short bus ride from the center, offers some of the most scenic day hikes in the Lake District. The paths here are less strenuous than Refugio Frey or Cerro Goye, making them ideal for a slightly easier hike. I took the bus to Trailhead Sendero Arrayanes and found a really nice food stand and clear signage (YAY!) about the trail.
I grabbed a hot coffee (love how most of the trails have this at the trailhead!) before heading towards Bosque de Arrayanes (Arrayan Forest). I took the offshoot for the view point of Moreno Lake, which sat right on the lake, with a little seating area, perfect for a picnic.
From there I continued on, with much relief seeing the clear directional signs at every intersection, so I had no fear of getting lost this time. I made good time wandering through the forest towards Puente Romano then Mirador Tacul, back tracking in parts (because I did still manage to get a little lost!) and finally heading towards Cerro Llao Llao. As I hiked, I could see the clouds roll in on the lake and the wind picked up. The ascent near the top was pretty rocky and steep, Along the way the vistas of the lake just kept getting better and better, until finally at the top, there were dramatic views of snow-dusted mountains mirrored in turquoise lakes. Seriously magnificent! But incredibly windy and despite wanting to take more time to stay there, I was freezing from the brutal cold, and was forced to head back down.
POST-HIKE RELAXATION AT LLAO LLAO RESORT
But that was not the end of exploring this area, since I had plans to visit the iconic 5-star Llao Llao Resort. This remarkable property is located by the lake and provides stunning views of the lake and mountains, along with 18 holes of golf, a spa, and numerous activities for guests. The hotel is perched on a hill overlooking the lake, and the walk up the path was beautiful. Following my hike, I took pleasure in savoring for a well-earned glass of wine in the cozy lounge, while watching the sun dip behind the Andes out the large windows overlooking the lake.
Here, thankfully, the busses run regularly from the stop right at the foot of the resort, so it was an easy trip back to town for the evening.
DAY 6: ANOTHER DAY AROUND TOWN
Around 8am I walked down to the beach to see an incredible sunrise over the lake. The sky was on fire with pinks and oranges as the waves splashed against the sandy shore. I intended to go on another hike, but despite the clear skies, the weather was extremely cold and windy today, so instead, I had to forfeit my plans and stay in town. I met my friends for lunch at Maleza Cafe- a large, pretty restaurant and coffee bar featuring delicious organic food with giant windows facing the lake. Then I took a long walk to the Bariloche sign and out on the long dock to capture some photos of the sweeping views of the town with the clouds reflecting on the lake. I almost was blown over fighting the wind, but the scenery was stunning. Afterward, I returned to town to buy some chocolate and gifts, then headed back to pack up since, sadly, the next day was my last in town.
A SUSPICIOUS STREET DEAL
At this time, the Argentinian peso was incredibly devalued against USD, so cash was king, and there were multiple exchange rates -depending on if you get your cash through banks, ATMs, or other means. There was a whole underground market of cash exchange for the "Blue Rate". It was a little crazy, but so typical that my Airbnb in Buenos Aires had offered a money-exchange service where a guy showed up to my apartment with tons of cash to exchange for my crispy USD. Totally wild, right? Since I was almost out of cash and heading back to Buenos Aires, I took advantage of one of the many guys on the street saying "plata" or "dinero". Although I heard sometimes these guys will go into a back alley, I was lucky enough to encounter a man who whipped out of his jacket a giant stack of Argentinian pesos worth thousands, and exchanged my crisp $100USD right on the street. I felt like I was doing a drug deal- it was so weird. But I got my cash at an excellent Blue rate!
FABULOUS FAREWELL PARILLA
Dinner tonight was at El Boliche de Alberto, probably the most popular steakhouse in town, with constant lines and an hour wait. But the wait was well-deserved since this place lives up to the hype. We were given menus with actual cowhide on them, and a long list of meats to choose from. We went a little nuts and ordered lamb and steak and chorizo, plus salad and provoleta and fries, and wine, wanting to sample the different cuts of meat. But soon found out the delicious and immense portions were more than the three of us could eat, even with hearty appetites. Paying for the bill in cash, it looked like we were major ballers with all the 1000 notes. yet, dinner was only about 50USD per person. And that was the most expensive meal of the trip!
DAY 7: A FLOAT, A HIKE, AND A FLIGHT
Since my flight on Aerolineas Argentina back to Buenos Aires didn't depart until 9:30pm, I had the whole day to enjoy. I walked to the other side of town because I had decided to treat myself to a float session at Flot.AR, and this was the only day available. I'd never done a float before and I was excited to try this sensory deprivation experience. The lobby was beautifully decorated and the English-speaking owner took time to carefully explain everything and set my somewhat nervous mind at ease. I was so afraid I would sink or freak out in the tank! I entered the room and disrobed, then took a quick rinse before getting into the float tank. There was the faintest music and lighting inside which would be adjusted or turned off - whatever level of comfort suited you. To my delight- I immediately floated! I ended up turning off the lights and fully closed the tank since it was so relaxing. It was so serene and truly magical. I did not want it to end. I only wish I could do it again!
After feeling all refreshed, I decided to go for one last hike, even though the weather looked debatable. I wanted to see Cerro Otto and took the bus there, only to find out that entrance had been closed for the season. It was a little frustrating to waste time, but I waited for another bus to the next closest entrance. It was a casual wide path up the side of a mountain, but as I neared the top it looked like the skies might open up, so I aborted before the summit to head back down. As the clouds parted, allowing the sun to illuminate the lake, I couldn't help but reflect on how spiritual and inspiring this place is. I always feel this way after enjoying the beauty of extraordinary nature.
I got back in time to grab a quick bite to eat before heading to the airport. I was so happy I had taken a chance and booked this trip when the opportunity arose. It knocked off a bucket-list item and was the perfect getaway.
BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT
HIGH SEASON:
(January- February) Summer for hiking and lake activities.
(July-August) Winter is popular for skiing.
SHOULDER SEASON:
(March - May) offers warm weather and longer days heading into beautiful fall foliage, cooler temperatures, and shorter days.
(September - November) is a great time for late skiing, turning into the spring, warmer weather and opening of the hiking trails
LOW SEASON:
(May-June ) is late autumn and much colder. Some hiking trails can be closed for season or for early snow.
(October- November) this is "Mud Season" in the mountains, but prices are discounted and it is quiet in town.
TRAVEL TIPS
TIP 1: Plan your transportation. It is advised to pay attention to the bus route times and pickup locations. Cell service does not work everywhere due to the mountainous remote terrain, so don't rely on calling for a ride. Taxis are available but not prevalent. Although Uber wasn't available on my trip in 2023, it since became available.
TIP 2: Bring Crisp USD. Cash is king in Argentina, and although you can use your card for many things, you will need cash for transportation. Exchanging crisp $50 or $100 bills will get you the best rate, although you can also use ATM's and do Western Union money transfers. This is a constantly evolving situation so make sure you do some research on the current situation before traveling to Argentina.
TIP 3: If you want to do any of the longer hikes that require stays at the refugios, book them in advance, because they can quickly run out of space in the high and shoulder season.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Bariloche offers a balanced mix of outdoor adventure, alpine charm, and culinary indulgence, making it one of the most rewarding destinations in northern Patagonia. For hikers, the combination of challenging trails like Refugio Frey and gentler routes around Llao Llao provides variety, while evenings bring the chance to indulge in Argentine steak, chocolate, and local wine. A week is plenty of time to experience nature and the charms of the town itself.
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