VICTORIA FALLS: A SOLO TRAVELER'S ADVENTURE TO ZAMBIA AND ZIMBABWE
- Feb 24
- 15 min read
Updated: Feb 26
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe and Livingstone, Zambia
When I stepped off the tiny plane in Livingstone, Zambia, the tarmac was eerily empty. Despite a full plane, heading next to Nairobi, just five of us disembarked, blinking in the golden late-afternoon sun. I'd been all around the world, and I'd never experienced being one of just a few people arriving from the only plane at the airport! once inside, we found ourselves to be the only people there - apart from the staff. It was a strange feeling- and a little intimidating- realizing I had truly gone off the grid this time!
How did I find myself in this situation? I had intended to spend a month in Cape Town and thought that if I was traveling such a great distance (and it truly is far—I had taken an 11-hour flight to Cape Town from Paris and a 9-hour flight to Paris), it would be reasonable to visit the famous Victoria Falls on the same journey. The falls are situated just north of South Africa, on the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe.
A bit of prior research also helped me understand. how much more there was to this place: where it was geographically meant there were nearby parks in Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana with wild animal safaris, adrenaline-packed adventures, evenings of wine floating down the Zambezi, beautiful resorts, local music, and so much more. I was so excited!
Here’s what it was like to experience Victoria Falls solo, and how you can plan your own trip to both the Zambian and Zimbabwean sides.
DAY 1: ARRIVE IN ZAMBIA
Although the Falls traverse both Zambia and Zimbabwe, I chose to initially stay in Zambia because Zimbabwe's airport is larger, providing more flight options if I visit Zimbabwe afterward and depart from there. I also liked that there were more lodge-style accommodations on the Zambian side, which felt more authentic.
I booked Ngoma Zanga Lodge, a smaller, and traditionally African-themed lodge tucked down a long dirt road. The hotel arranged for a driver to pick me up at the airport, and he was there waiting when I arrived. Zambia. The area is undeveloped and felt remote, and at first, I thought, where on earth am I? Seriously! But soon I was greeted with warmth that set the tone for my days in Zambia. The staff were welcoming and helpful. The rooms were spacious, and beautifully decorated with authentic locally-made African decor. They had handmade robes, a gorgeous pool area with all sort of plants and foliage, an on-side restaurant with truly delicious food. I also loved that I could book all sorts of activities directly through the hotel- which was a huge plus for me, because that guaranteed I would be with tour guides the hotel trusted. In fact, it was one of the reasons I booked here- there had been so many great reviews of both the hotel and the tours. The only drawback was the internet signal was almost nonexistent and it was too remote to walk anywhere- because wild animals roam freely (apparently it is not too unusual to run into an elephant here!). However, this second issue was easy to fix because they had drivers on call to whisk guests wherever they needed to go.
On my first night, I didn’t get far. I sat down for dinner and was soon chatting with a couple of fellow Americans. They invited me to join their table, and we dined and shared stories - that’s something I love about solo travel — you never know when strangers will become companions and companions turn into friends. After dinner, I tried to make a loose plan for what activities I wanted to do, so I could book them the next morning with the hotel.
DAY 2: ZAMBIA
GIRAFFE AND ZEBRA ENCOUNTERS AT THE ROYAL LIVINGSTONE HOTEL
My first activity- that I was particularly excited about - was visiting the Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara. This incredibly property where zebras and giraffes roam freely, and its situated on the Zambezi close enough to see the edge of Victoria Falls. I had read you could have lunch or dinner here, so I had planned to do that and visit the Falls after, which were about a ten minute walk from the property. Timing was difficult though because I wanted to hit the Falls at the best time to catch rainbows and take some great pics.
I communicated my plan to the hotel manager who insisted I visit the Royal Livingstone Hotel before going to the Falls — otherwise, I’d arrive soaked. (Spoiler alert- she was right!) She said there was no one time to see the rainbows, so I could swap my schedule around. Even better, she called the hotel to see if it was a time I could visit, and told me a secret- that if I'm lucky, one of the porters might take me around and help me find the animals. I didn't even know this was a thing!
When we arrived, I almost freaked out! There were three zebras wandering around the front entrance to the hotel. I could hardly believe it was real! Then, my driver introduced me to a porter who promised to help me spot the wildlife on the hotel’s grounds. I thought it would be a quick stroll. Instead, it turned into a private safari on a golf cart, through winding paths shaded by ancient trees, every turn full of possibility. And then — there they were. One giraffe over the edge behind some trees. It was massive!!! We got out and then, to my utter amazement, two other giraffes came, stepping gracefully out of the bush, necks bending delicately as they browsed from the trees. We stood so close I could hear the soft tearing of leaves. My guide beamed as he
snapped photo after photo, but I just stood frozen, grinning like a child, staring in awe, and drinking it all in. That moment alone would have been worth the trip! On the way back , we found the zebras, their stripes flickering in and out of the sunlight. and I was just in heaven!
FACING THE POWER OF THE FALLS - "THE SMOKE THAT THUNDERS"
After my private safari drive, finally, it was time to see the Zambian side of Victoria Falls. The whole reason I was here! The locals call the Falls, "The Smoke That Thunders" because the water falls from such a high level that the mist it emits looks like smoke from the distance, and emits a deep rumbling sound like thunder. I was so excited!! I had been warned I should get a poncho because I could get wet. So I rented a plastic poncho from the first vendor I saw outside the entrance, which turned out to be flimsy and entirely inadequate. (Do NOT make this mistake- rent the better ones inside!) . I had a dry bag to put my purse in and I was in a short dress with my Adidas. (Entrance to Victoria Falls Zambia is $20 USD)
I had read May was a great month to visit since the Falls will be just after their peak and viewing should be good. Not that I had any choice- I took advantage of this rare opportunity to visit. To view the Falls, you walk around a series of interchanging paths. The first path began with a clear, beautiful view of the Falls, albeit partially obstructed., and I could feel just a bit of mist. Walk a little further and I got a frontal view of the falls, now obstructed by the mist. But as the paths progressed closer, it turns out, the water was at its highest, and the “mist” became less of a mist and more of a full-on drenching rainstorm! Within minutes, I was soaked to the skin. My sneakers squelched with every step, and the poncho was a joke. Thankfully, I had tucked my phone into multiple plastic bags and a dry bag. There was hardly any visibility of the falls. Crossing Knife’s Edge Bridge was like running headlong into a hurricane — water pounding down, visibility near zero — but halfway across, a rainbow stretched through the spray. I laughed out loud, drenched and exhilarated, knowing it was a once-in-a-lifetime moment. If you come in the dry season (August–December), apparently you’ll see the full rock face and rainbows arching across the gorge. But in high water, it’s raw power you’ll never forget!
As I walked on the paths, drenched, I ran into a couple Zambian girls, who invited me to join them on the hike down to the Boiling Point, and area of the Zambezi where the flows cross and the water swirls. The girls were all dressed up and we had fun taking pictures together, and for me, learning what life is like in Zambia. At the bottom, there was a clear view of Victoria Fall Bridge, and the Zambezi. They left to head back while I remained just enjoying the experience. On my way back up I ended up chatting with another Zambian, who was also so friendly and nice. It truly gave me such a positive impression of the people here.
One of the most famous Instagram pictures is of people sitting in "Devil's Pool" which looks like the edge of the falls. I had considering doing this, but due to the excessive water flow, it was closed. However, it is a little hit or miss because there was a huge drought the year before and May was completely dry. So, if you can, check out the conditions before you book your trip. But for the wild ones, you could still do a helicopter tour, bungee off of the Victoria Falls bridge, or hang from the edge of the falls, if your adrenaline need a boost. Mine did not!
SUNSET DINING ON THE ZAMBEZI
After going back to the hotel to shower and I change, I ran out again, just in time to catch the sunset at the other Livingstone property- the David Livingstone Lodge, which sits right on the Zambezi. After seeing the sunset, I enjoyed a traditional Zambian full-service buffet. There were so many things to choose from, including some interesting local game- like gator and impala. They had a live singer and I sat at the river's edge enjoying my meal and some imported South African wine (while dousing myself in the bug spray they provided).
You could say the theme today was Livingstone and the Falls, so here is a bit of history. David Livingstone was a Scottish explorer and credited as the first European to travel across Africa by foot. He is held in high regard in Zambia and Zimbabwe for his humanitarian work, opposition to the slave-trade, and deep friendships with the local communities.
DAY 3: ZAMBIA
WALKING WITH ENDANGERED WHITE RHINOS
The next morning was just as extraordinary. I booked a Rhino Walk Tour through my hotel. The tour began before sunrise when I was picked up in an open safari vehicle and driven to Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Bundled in a jean jacket and shivering on the open safari truck in the early May morning, I wondered if I’d made a mistake. I had no idea I could be freezing in this part of Africa! But soon it warmed up and as we entered the Park, the bush came alive: elephants crossed the road, buffalo grazed in the grass, and impalas leapt away as our truck rumbled by. I had never been on an actual safari before so just the sight of wild animals was surreal.
Then came the real highlight — we stopped the jeep and met up with two armed rangers who led us quietly on foot to see Zambia’s last remaining white rhinos. Only a handful survive here, eight to be exact, heavily protected from poachers.
We walked single file until suddenly — there they were. Seven of them, massive and prehistoric, grazing calmly in the morning light. My heart raced. Standing just yards away from such endangered creatures, I felt humbled and grateful. This wasn’t just sightseeing. It was bearing witness to the history of evolution to the verge of extinction.
The tour was back by noon and I decided to spend my afternoon enjoying the beautiful pool area and trying to finalize my plans (since I did not have a flight out at this point!)
SUNSET DRINKS WITH ZEBRAS & A SURPRISE ZAMBIAN DANCE
For sunset, I decided to go back to The Royal Livingstone Hotel. I went early, around 4:30pm since sunset was at 6:30pm and I wanted some time to explore the property. This is a 5-star property, so I felt like I could dress up a little for the occasion. When I arrived, there were zebras roaming around. One of the staff offered to take my picture, to my delight!
After watching these beautiful animals, I wandered down to the bar area which was perched on the Zambezi. Here, in the daylight, I was awestruck to find you could see the edge of Victoria Falls just off in the distance. The "smoke" was rising and you could hear the "thunder" of the water crashing below. The staff was all very kind in describing their wine selections. They had an amazing selection of South African wines, including one made specially for the resort! I ordered the Sauvignon Blanc, The Royal Livingstone South African wine from Stellenbosch. and sat back sipping my wine as the sun began to set. Two of the zebras wandered in front, and I swear I thought I was dreaming! Then, totally unexpectedly, a group of traditional dancers came and performed a sunset ritual dance right in front of the bar area where I was sitting! There was singing and dancing and drums, for 20 minutes or so. A whole show and it was incredible!
I returned to Ngoma Zanga that evening to enjoy a dinner with my new American friends, before moving on to Zimbabwe the next day.
DAY 4: ZAMBIA & ZIMBABWE
CROSSING THE BORDER FROM ZAMBIA TO ZIMBABWE
The manager at the hotel organized a driver to assist me in crossing the border from Zambia to Zimbabwe. Initially, I believed I could walk, as some blogs suggested it was fine, but she strongly advised against it (and was right again!). While crossing, I was grateful I didn't attempt it on foot, as it's certainly not advisable, particularly for women with luggage. The journey between the borders is about a 10-minute drive on a partly uneven surface, crowded with semitrucks, some animals, a few men walking, and no women.
After I got into Victoria Falls town, it was immediately clear, this side is more developed than Livingstone, with bigger hotels, more restaurants, and proper shopping centers. I was a bit relieved that I would be able to use my dollars here in Zimbabwe, instead of trying to hunt down ATM's in Zambia that had cash, but I did feel a little disappointed that the rugged and African-feeling aspect of my adventure seemed to have been left in Zambia.
A LUXURY CRUISE ON THE ZAMBEZI
After settling in to my new hotel, I was picked up late afternoon for my sunset luxury Zambezi River Cruise. The boat- if you could call it a boat- looked like a fancy floating lounge, with full service, cocktails, and chef-prepared gourmet bites (including crocodile, which I sampled for the first time). It was all couples, and I did feel a little out of place, but the fiery sunset over the river, hippos bobbing in and out of the water nearby, courtesy of the staff, and the steady hum of the boat made it a truly pleasurable experience.
DAY 5: ZIMBABWE & BOTSWANA
SAFARI IN CHOBE NATIONAL PARK, BOTSWANA
The following day was one of my favorites! I took a day trip into Chobe National Park in Botswana, just across the border. Within minutes of entering, I was surrounded by wildlife: elephants so close you could hear them breathe, giraffes moving in herds, even a pride of lions dozing in the trees. After a buffet lunch by the river, we switched to a small river boat, gliding along the border of Botswana and Namibia. We got so close to a crocodile I could see its sharp teeth and the ridges of its back glistening in the sun, as it and I held my breath as a herd of impala passed by the dangerous creature. I thoroughly enjoyed seeing a giant elephant splash in the water right in front of us, and totally perplexed seeing a bird sitting on top of a buffalo. It was my first true safari, which had been a dream of mine, and it left me speechless.
ZIMBABWE'S VICTORIA FALLS
On the Zimbabwean side, I had heard this side was less wet and an easier trail to walk. But as my driver was picking me up, the staff at my hotel were horrified to see me in sandals. They insisted the driver stop at a shoe store to get me some proper footwear on the way. As luck would have it, they had an exact match to my fuchsia pink dress in a rubber-soled water shoe. I couldn't have been more thrilled with my last-minute outfit addition- for only $5!
I had heard that hiring a guide for this side of the falls is highly recommended, as it is wider and more dramatic; so my hotel arranged one for me , and I met up with him at the entrance. (Entrance to Victoria Falls -Zimbabwe: $50 USD). He gave me an excellent overview of how the falls were formed, the geology of the area, and what kinds of plants and animals I might see roaming around. AND he brought me a proper poncho, so no flimsy one this time! Well, the Falls here were just as wet and the guide and I had a hilarious time trying to dodge the massive misty rainfall again. In fact, it was so heavy that I somehow managed to get soaked inside the poncho! But he was so much fun to hang out with, and a good sport to spend his morning getting soaked, so the visit was still enjoyable, albeit mostly a failure in terms of seeing the Falls.
SHOPPING FOR HANDMADE GOODS
The hotel had also insisted I had a driver for the day, so he met me at the entrance after my visit, and upon my request, he took me to a shopping area called Elephant's Walk Shopping and Artist's Village Outside was an enormous area of vendors, all with hand-carved wood, stone, and other art. I spent quite a good amount of time here wandering around before deciding on some purchases. Inside Elephant Walk, there is also a lot of stores with very high-end products from local artisans- ranging from textiles to clothing to giant, incredible art priced at thousands of dollars. There is also a food area and wifi here.
STUNNING SUNSET BATOKA GORGE VIEWS AT THE LOOKOUT CAFE
After shopping, my driver took me to The Lookout Café — perched over the Batoka Gorge like a balcony above the world. I tried to get him to come sit with me inside, but he would not do so while on the job. So I had some more alone time to sit on the edge of this terrace with this incredible view, a glass of South African wine in hand, and the Zambezi rushing far below, I watched the sunset paint the cliffs in gold and felt that familiar mix of joy and solitude that comes with traveling alone. It was the perfect ending to this incredible adventure!
THERE IS NO SHORTAGE OF ADVENTURES IN VICTORIA FALLS
Depending on your budget, Victoria Falls offers nearly every kind of adventure you can imagine:
Helicopter Tours over the falls
Walking with lions or cheetahs (controversial for animal welfare, so research carefully before booking).
Tiger fishing on the Zambezi.
Devil’s Pool (seasonal activity when you can swim right on the edge of the falls.).
White-water rafting in the gorge.
Bungee jumping off the Victoria Falls Bridge.
Boma Dinner & Drum Show : four-course African buffet with traditional dancing and interactive drum show
More relaxed cultural village visits, market shopping, and performances.
Whether you’re an adrenaline junkie or a quiet wanderer, there’s something here for you.
BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT
HIGH SEASON: (February - April) Prime time for peak water. and a possibilities of seeing the Moonbow (a night lunar rainbow from the Falls).
SHOULDER SEASON: (April-May, or September - October) For good water flow and less mist than high season, pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds. However, it depends on the season, as mentioned, May was dry one year and maximum water when I visited.
LOW SEASON: (November - March) is the rainy season. There are low water levels and it can be very hot.
TRAVEL TIPS
TIP 1: If you’re considering a trip, my advice is simple: do it, but also, budget for it! What surprised me the most was the cost. I had not anticipated Western-priced activity costs in Africa, since I had been to other parts of the world where activity costs were more in line with local prices. I would have liked to have done more, but at the end of a long trip, without budgeting for this, I had to limit myself. Regardless, I felt like I had a full schedule and was incredibly satisfied with the activities I did splurge on. For what I missed, there is always the possibility of next time! (Sample Costs: Victoria Falls Entrance $25USD Zambia / Zimbabwe $50USD, Chobe Safari Day Tour $170USD, Zambezi Cruise $65USD)
TIP 2: Get the KAZA Univisa upon arrival ($50 USD CASH and bring a crisp new bill) because this will let you go back and forth between Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana. And bring small denominations of USD for when you can't get local currency out of an ATM (which frequently happens). I was unable to use some of the larger bills I brought because I couldn't find anywhere to change them.
TIP 3: Although many blogs will say you can walk across the border- I do not recommend this. It is a long walk and there are lots of big trucks and animals on the crossing. Arrange transportation.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Victoria Falls isn’t just about seeing a natural wonder. It’s about the feeling of being there: drenched by mist, hearing the thunderous roar, humbled by rhinos, charmed by the local people, and having daily adventures I'd only dreamed of. As a solo traveler, there were moments I felt a bit awkward (like when I was the only solo person on a romantic sunset river cruise), but there were also moments of connection, surprise, and absolute joy, sitting in awe of nature.
This was an EPIC adventure. A real Bucket-list check! Sure, the Falls were a bit of a failure, but the rest of the activities more than made up for it. I met the nicest people, and have memories to treasure for a lifetime.
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