AN HONEST OPINION ON TRAVELING SOLO AS A WOMAN IN MOROCCO
- Feb 3
- 12 min read
Updated: Feb 12
Marrakech, Morocco
For years I wanted to visit Morocco. As an American, Morocco always intrigued me- the colors and spices and ways of life that are so different from mainstream American culture. I was waiting for the day when I could finally make the trip.
Although I had looked into group trips, it never worked out. Then, while living in Barcelona, I realized towards the end of my stay that I could fly to Marrakech very inexpensively on one of the European budget airlines. This was one of those opportunities that I did not want to miss! The drawback was that I was entirely unprepared, had little time to prep, and would be on my own. But like most opportunities in life- you can't plan the timing- sometimes you just have to seize the moment - and hope it works out!
WHAT MY RESEARCH TOLD ME
I had about five days to prep for my trip, so I googled all the articles and blogs I could find on females visiting Marrakech solo- with my primary concerns being what to wear, where to stay, and where I can go alone safely. I read as much as I had time for. For the most part, they said to dress very modestly – making sure to cover shoulders, arms, and all the way to ankles with loose clothing that doesn’t accentuate your body shop. They recommended to stay in the Medina, but with the caveat that it is very difficult to find your way around, and not to go out in the Medina at night alone. One blogger even said she went without dinner just because she didn’t want to go out alone after dark. This was, obviously, very concerning!
HOW I PREPARED FOR MY TRIP
PACKING TO BE CULTURALLY SENSITIVE
As I was already traveling, I was limited to what I had brought with me to travel for a hot European summer. This included mostly an array of bikinis, crop tops, shorts, and mini skirts. I hadn’t even brought a pair of jeans! Not exactly the kind of clothing I would want in Morocco. I literally had nothing that I thought was fully appropriate, but thankfully, I am an over-packer!, so I was able to piece together five full outfits, that sort of emulated the style I wanted, and covered me up as best as I could- for the five days of my trip- (one of which included my bathing suit cover up to use as a shirt - because I was seriously trying as hard as I could!) My best attempt to be modest definitely fell short of what was recommended. In every outfit there was at least a little skin showing - whether that was my stomach, back, legs, arms, or shoulders. Although I did try to go out and shop before my flight, winter clothing was already fully stocked in the Barcelona stores, and even in October, Marrakech would be extremely hot. So I was, unfortunately, stuck with what I had.
Although my wardrobe had me concerned, my Barcelona-based Moroccan friend, who was from Marrakech, told me not to worry, it is a modern city and I can wear whatever I want. I wasn’t quite sure if I fully believed him, but I let his advice provide enough security for me to not panic.
FINDING WHERE TO STAY TO FEEL SAFE
Next, my main concern was finding a place to stay. It was a toss up between staying at a modern hotel in the newer part of the city that seemed easier to navigate, and with more tourists and western amenities, or in the Medina at a traditional Riad (basically a local B&B) where I would be walking distance to everything, but perhaps, easily lost, and might have difficulty finding dinner in the evening. The Riads intrigued me- it seemed it wouldn't be as authentic an experience if I stayed in a modern hotel. I liked the idea of staying in a family-owned property - to make my tourist dollars go to the community, and to have the opportunity to interact with a local family.
So I spent an unreasonable amount of time searching for the perfect place to relieve my paranoia. I wanted a Riad that was pretty for pictures (and so many of them are gorgeous), with excellent reviews for cleanliness and service, and in a location that could maybe be accessible by taxis so I wouldn’t have to walk very far alone if I did want to go out and that had a restaurant or dinner available if I wanted to eat in. I must have read hundreds of reviews. And I spent way too much time zooming into locations on Satellite view of Google Maps to see exactly how close to a road each was. I finally settled on one the day before because I was stressing so much!. In the end I decided to splurge on a Riad that was more than I wanted to spend, but met all these requirements. (Spoiler alert- this was totally ridiculous and unnecessary and I do not recommend putting in so much effort!)
NOW, LET'S TALK ABOUT WHAT ACTUALLY HAPPENED!
ARRIVAL
You could say I was a little nervous when I arrived. I was covered head to toe in loose pants and a long sleeve jean jacket. However, my initial fears were calmed by an unbelievably smooth pickup and transfer to my Riad Dar Charkia in the Medina.
As a tip: I always check Booking.com first to make hotel bookings because with enough bookings, you can reach a higher status and get upgraded rooms, free breakfasts, and 10-20% off room rates. And get this- unlike any loyalty reward programs- once you achieve status, you get to keep it for life!
I arrived in Marrakech - after a 6am flight meaning I had to go to the airport at 3am! - fully covered up head to toe, and my driver was waiting at the exit with a sign with my name. He spoke perfect English and carried my bags to the Land Rover parked outside. He drove me to the closest place to the Riad that cars could access. When we arrived he called the Riad and the host from the Riad came and met me at the car. He also spoke perfect English and walked me in the Medina and to the Riad which was a round a couple corners in the winding alley, pointing out the markers I should look for when going out on my own.
When we arrived, it was clear hospitality is something Moroccans take seriously. He gave me mint tea and a couple pastries and sat down with me explaining where the major sites are and how to get to them, as well as what services the Riad could provide. Then they allowed me to check into my room a few hours before check-in. Honestly, I couldn’t have asked for a nicer experience from start to finish. At this point, it felt like every penny I spent was worth it.
NAVIGATING THE CITY ON MY OWN
I arrived quite early in the morning so after checking in, I had no time to waste in beginning my day. I changed into one of my prettier outfits to give me a boost of self-confidence…. with a scarf wrapped around my upper torso to cover me up. I had a simple itinerary planned to try and group the major sights together by location, so nervous or not, I began straight ahead on my own.
Within the first hour, I fell for a scam, got lost, and recovered. Kind of a rocky start, but that is to be expected. Upon arriving at my first touristic destination, Le Jardin Secret (The Secret Jardin), I saw enough female tourists in casual summer clothing to know I did not need to cover myself head to toe. So the scarf came off.
And over the next five days, my basic feeling changed from nervous to entirely comfortable. All of my outfits had pants or a long skirt, and I tried to cover up my shoulders, sleeves and stomach with a scarf in places where I didn’t want to offend anyone, but I didn’t feel like it was necessary for my safety. I would leave my hotel and walk around with my scarf on, then take it off once I arrived at my touristic destination and could see the dress code was relaxed. Otherwise I would keep it on.
On one daring night, I went out to dinner at an amazing and modern belly-dancing restaurant/lounge called Comptoir Darna and wore a long dress with a high leg slit that was somewhat revealing, because I had limited clothing and had read online that it was completely acceptable at this place. Of course, en route I was covered up with a big scarf wrapped around me. Regardless, the host of my Riad had insisted on walking me to a taxi and negotiated a rate to bring me to the restaurant and pick me up, and even met the taxi to walk me back to the Riad when I arrived at 1:00am. Talk about full service! And just as surprising- the taxi wouldn’t even accept any money - not even half- until he had deposited me back to my original location to meet the host at 1:00am. This extra effort of care was so appreciated and made me feel entirely safe. Although, the second night I went out, I decided it was unnecessary and walked out and back on my own (albeit I was in a much more conservative outfit).
SAFETY
I had zero problems. Sure, there were a lot of men who asked my name or wanted me to stop and talk to them, or even shouted out marriage proposals on a couple of occasions! But whistling, cat calls, or aggressive behavior was completely absent. I never felt unsafe because of anyone’s actions. The few times I felt uncomfortable was mostly because of what I imagined could happen instead of anything actually happening.
I actually decided to extend my stay by an additional night because I felt so at ease. To balance my budget and test how well I could manage it, I booked a more affordable Riad. It ended up not being the most pleasant experience. I struggled to locate it inside the Medina (the GPS failed, no one was there to meet me, and they didn't answer the phone when I got lost), and it was uncomfortable to stay there (the room was so tiny I couldn't open my luggage, they didn't speak English or offer any services or help, and they charged me an unreasonable amount extra to hold my luggage). But I did it and I managed.
I realized that the Riad I initially booked was wonderful, but not essential for safety. Booking it was a smart choice to calm my nerves and ensure comfort, especially as a first-time traveler. It was fantastic that they went above and beyond by walking me to the taxi at night and meeting me upon my return, even very late. I would book it again simply because it was so beautiful and enjoyable, though it wasn't necessary. So, just know, if you're mindful of your budget, you don't have to spend extra just to feel safe.
WHAT MADE ME FEEL NERVOUS
GETTING LOST IN THE MEDINA MY FIRST DAY
The Medina is a mix of windy, small, interconnected passages that sometimes end in dead ends, and GPS does not always work. I have no sense of direction so getting lost is something I deal with regularly in any place. But getting lost in the Medina is a bit nerve racking because there are very few named streets and you can’t figure out where you are, or which way you are heading.
On my first visit, which was also my first day in Marrakech, I went to the Souk (market) in the Medina, and I immediately got lost. So I asked someone for directions and followed what appeared to be a well-meaning local to show me the way. He led me deep into the Souk for what turned out to be a scam. It was just a few hours into my first day, and with my own terrible sense of direction, I started panicking a little. Part of this was from the previous blogs I read which said it was wise to hire a guide to go into the Souk and advised not to go alone. Had it been my third or fourth day, I would have realized there was no cause for alarm and that the majority of people working in the Souk are friendly and helpful. However, I didn’t know that at the time and my judgment was clouded by what I’d read. My nerves got the best of me, and I almost started crying, but I tried to just be logical and calm and try to keep walking in what I thought was the direction I came from, until finally, the GPS picked up and I could navigate my way back out.
SHOPPING UNTIL THE MEDINA CLOSED
The second time I was nervous was when I shopped too long and needed to walk back through the Souk to the far side to get to my hotel. By now, It was getting dark and most of the stalls were closed, it was mostly empty as the vendors and tourists had left, very dark in some areas, at best poorly lit. I felt like I shouldn’t be there, so I tried to hurry up. Again, nothing actually happened but it gave me an uncomfortable feeling. I would most likely have the same feeling if I were stuck in an American shopping center after it was closed. So - perspective.
DRESSING INAPPROPRIATELY IN THE LOCAL SECTION OF THE MEDINA
The third occasion I felt nervous was when I was walking towards the Yves Saint Laurent Jardin Majorelle and needed to walk in the very local food market area of the Medina. Here, I only saw a couple tourists walking by and I had made the unfortunate choice (partially by necessity as described earlier),l where I was walking in a pink sundress with a high front slit that kept blowing open. Now, mind you, I had seen women wearing short shorts and miniskirts in other places, but here I felt uncomfortable in my outfit, like I was on display. I definitely had some people looking at me, but no one said or did anything, and I imagine they were probably looking because I stood out so much. I felt inappropriate.
WHAT MADE ME FEEL CALM
BOOKING A GREAT RIAD
The first Riad I booked was a 4 minute walk to a taxi stand and across from the palace where there was a military security presence 24 hours a day, and taxis constantly waiting around. Granted, they were all men, which seemed intimidating at first, but after a couple days of taking taxis, I realized they were nice and helpful. They would ask if I needed a ride, but not one of them ever harassed me or made me feel uncomfortable. So when I came home after midnight by myself and needed to walk into the Medina to my Riad, the walk was very short and I did not have any problems. In fact, barely anyone spoke to me, and although they noticed my presence (because its obvious!), I did not feel unsafe.
The first Riad was so helpful and available for anything. They texted me when I was out to see if I needed anything and (as mentioned before), walked me in and out to the taxi, and would have assisted me with anything I needed if I had asked.
TALKING TO LOCALS
I talked to many local people – the host in my Riad, the local shop owners, a tour guide who happened to sit next to me at a restaurant, and the overall sentiment was the same. Marrakech is a city that has Muslims, Christians and Jews living in harmony and their level of tolerance for people of other cultures and ways of life is high.
Moroccans in general have an insane command of multiple languages. Some of the sellers in the Main Square or Souk can speak six to seven different languages! Overall most people spoke English which was shocking to me. Their primary language is Arabic with French being a close second and English third. Almost every restaurant and shop had English speakers. Sure, there were some situations where people didn't speak English, but it was more unusual than the norm. And in these situations Google Translate is an incredibly useful tool to use to get your point across.
BEING FRIENDLY INSTEAD OF AFRAID
Although I read before I went that shopping in the Souk Semmarine could be a very harrowing experience for those who are not used to it, I found it fun! True, there was nonstop attention from the men working in the shops - every shop I passed would say hello and ask who I was and where I come from, and would invite me inside to shop; but no one was aggressive or threatening. Quite the opposite- I found everyone to be very friendly! I smiled and joked around with the vendors, and got to admire the art of making handmade goods from wood or leather. I even got asked on a few dates!
Albeit, the attention and purchase process were somewhat exhausting. Haggling for a fair deal is not something I enjoy. Eventually I purchased some beautiful items at prices that I thought were fair, after a bit of friendly negotiation. It is certainly a skill to find the sweet spot for what is fair to both the buyer and seller. This takes practice, and once or twice I got so into the negotiation that they let me walk out without any purchase because I offered too low, and then I felt bad that my offer might have been offensive. Of course, what they will sell to to me versus a local is totally different and expected- there will always be a “tourist tax” in places where they rely on tourism so heavily. You can expect to be ripped off a couple times, but that is the nature of haggling and traveling.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Everyone has their own level of comfort with circumstances that feel unusual or very foreign to them. As someone who has traveled around the world, I am likely more comfortable than the average traveler.
Overall, I felt like I experienced a higher degree of safety than I had expected and that, in general, Moroccan people are friendly and generous. Although it is their culture to be more modestly dressed, abiding by these traditions is not mandatory. It is more out of respect and a general feeling of inclusion to do so. I felt safe alone and at night in every place I went. I think if you exhibit friendliness and smile you are received with the same. People who are fearful will see ominous people and circumstances around every corner. Saying hello and smiling goes a long way!
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